….The Nyemecz’s sweat tonight! And the morning, and at lunchtime, and pretty much every hour of the day! Well, talk about a culture shock, our short flight from Singapore to Medan didn’t really give us enough time, or prepare us, for the difference between two countries that are geographically next door neighbours, and who have a rich shared history.

 

To be fair, flying into Medan late in the evening, which is pretty built up, didn’t really feel all that different. Airports and airport hotels are pretty similar the world over. However, it was the next morning after we had breakfasted, and we were on our way to the Sumatran jungle, that it became apparent we had entered a whole new world. The GDP of Sumatra is about 1/20 of that of Singapore, so as expected the infrastructure, the vehicles, the shops, restaurants, etc, all reflect this. It is also the first predominately Muslim country we have been to on our trip, so seeing the beautiful domes of the Mosques dominant the skyline, hearing the call to prayer, and seeing so many more women and children with heads covered, really reinforced the fact that we were somewhere truly new.

 

Then of course there is the contrast with where we have chosen to stay to kick off our Indonesian leg. The jungle. The regular jungle township of Bukit Lawang would be contrast enough, however we are another 30-40 mins further on again, and staying in a tiny remote village. The accommodation is our most basic yet, an ecolodge they call it. It is essentially a wooden house built on stilts, very little electricity, one light (when the electricity is working, one fan (when the electricity is working), no flushing toilets, cold water only, and we are the only western people staying here. It’s not as dramatic as it sounds, however the contrast with our little slice of luxury in Singapore is pretty stark. I think it’s the sweat, and constant battle with the mosquitoes (less so the leeches), that are the only real negatives.

 

Other than those minor drawbacks, it’s beautiful. The views are stunning, photos will never do it justice, and we are getting to spend a lot of time together playing card games and travel board games, and reading, when we aren’t off exploring the surrounding area that is. A primate conservationist from Hartlepool fell in love here with a local guide on a research project some 17 years ago. They bought some land, which they are painstakingly restoring to natural jungle, looking to reverse some of the effects the palm oil plantations have had, and continue to have, on the local ecosystem. Whilst palm oil gets a one sided negative press back home, it’s interesting to hear another side of it, it’s a much more balanced view, and this from someone who is trying to re-wild the jungle. Given Palm Oil is a ‘necessary evil’ as the global demand for consumer goods which contain it goes unabated, it’s all about a sustainable approach to palm oil not just vilifying it. They developed their tourist business, they have the ecolodge and another guest house in the main town, as a way to fund the project, but also share the beauty of the area.

 

We’ve been getting involved with a border patrol of their lands to help ward off illegal poaching and people setting snares. We have been trekking and swimming in the local river, which is the border of the Bukit Lawang national park. Crystal clear waters all to ourselves, surprisingly cold as well, which was very welcome to help cool off after a hot and sweaty trek. An Indonesian cookery class where we learned to make a number of dishes using just one pan, and all with local ingredients. Reminder to self to cook more local seasonal foods when home. Tempeh (fermented soya beans) is the main protein source and luckily enjoyable to all of our palates. Watching truly wild Thomas’ Leaf monkeys playing in the trees from our ecolodge whilst having breakfast will last in the memory for some time to come.

 

The highlight though was spending a morning helping out a local library. Andrea and her husband built the library a couple of years ago, using the surplus funds from ecotourists like ourselves, to help build a safe educational and play space for the children in the village to compliment their schooling. It also gives them a space to be kids, many of them, even as young as 7 and 8 have jobs to do after school (which finishes at midday). So this allows them to escape a little. We saw one girl of just 10 come along and collect her two younger siblings so they could take the cows out to pasture together. A 2-3hr round trip, just the 3 of them and a half a dozen cows. Eye opening and certainly pulls at the heart strings. The children though love the library, and soon warmed to us as well, Jenga is a great leveller in many ways. We had such a heart warming few hours with them.

 

Although we are experiencing a very modest way of life where we are staying, the food has been another highlight. Breakfast has been a little hit and miss but otherwise the rest of the meals have been absolutely delicious, some of the best we have eaten. And all cooked over an open fire. Testament to the two young men they have working here looking after us.

 

Our time here has come to an end though, 3 nights of tranquility and relative isolation, and we are heading to the jungle town of Bukit Lawang. Our accommodation will be similar in the town, we’re staying in Andrea’s main tourist guesthouse, so won’t be escaping the sweat and mosquitoes just yet. But we will be in a town and very much looking forward to exploring somewhere a little bigger and sampling some more Indonesian cuisine. We have a few National park treks lined up where we will hopefully get to see Orangutans in their natural habitat.

 

Until next time… Hati Hati… which means farewell / take care in Indonesian (much to Hatty’s delight!)

 

S, K, L & H x